What we look at under an old deck
The decision is made underneath, not on top: the frame tells us more than the boards do.
When a repair is money wasted
- Rot in the frameThe first thing we look for under the deck. Rot in the parts that carry the load can be hidden, and new boards on top of it do not fix it.
- Check an old frame in untreated lumberFraming that was never pressure-treated gets a closer look as it ages. We judge it by the wood itself, not by its age. If it has to go, the new deck is built on a pressure-treated frame.
- Rotten or termite-eaten beams, posts or joistsWhen the parts that carry the load are gone, there is nothing left worth saving under the boards.
- A frame built without the hardwareNo metal connectors between posts and beams, no joist hangers, joists too small for their span or set too far apart. A frame like that needs a close look at how it is supported and attached, including where it meets the house.
- A deck that movesIt wobbles when you walk across it, the boards are cracked and worn, nails stand up out of the surface. Joists set too far apart wear the boards out early.
When a repair is the right call
- The deck is nearly new and the damage is in one placeA few damaged boards, a section of rail, one set of stairs. A single loose board, a squeaky step or a few screws are usually better value with a local handyman.
- It only needs maintenanceWash and stain, or wash, sand and stain. See what that costs in our refinishing cost guide. The work itself: deck refinishing and staining.
When patching an old deck stops paying
Fixing one soft spot does not fix the rest of a frame that is already weak, and the next one can show up somewhere else. If that keeps happening, the repairs add up toward the price of a new deck while the old frame stays. Whether yours is at that point is something we tell you after the visit, not from a photo.
Rot shows up first where the wood is closest to the ground, and in joists that were never pressure-treated.
The middle option: new boards on a sound frame
When the frame is pressure-treated and in good shape but the boards are worn out, we do not tear everything down.
- We keep the pressure-treated frame if it is soundMost of it stays. Broken or weak pieces are replaced.
- We add joists where composite needs themComposite boards want joists closer together than an old wood deck had, so we fill in the gaps.
- New boards go on topThe client saves the cost of a new frame.
What repair and replacement cost
Replacement includes taking the old deck out; hauling it away is quoted separately. On level ground that is $45 to $60 per sq ft in pressure-treated wood, $57 to $69 in redwood and $50 to $80 in composite. Elevated and hillside decks cost more. How we do it: full deck replacement.
Repair we do not price from a table. We look at the deck in person and give you the number in writing.
Price a replacementOld deck, no budget yet?
If it is stable and nothing that carries the load is rotten, you can leave it alone for now and put the money toward a replacement. Patching a weak frame piece by piece can add up, and the old frame is still under it. If it was built without connectors and joist hangers, have it looked at first.
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Questions people actually ask
Should I repair or replace my deck?
Replace it if the frame has rot, if the posts, beams or joists are rotten or termite-eaten, or if it was built without metal connectors and joist hangers. An old frame in untreated lumber is a reason to look closer, not a verdict by itself. Repair it if it is nearly new and the damage is local. We make the call after looking under the deck, not from photos.
How long does a deck last?
There is no fixed number. It depends on the lumber, how the deck was built, moisture and upkeep. For a well-built, well-kept deck on a pressure-treated frame we plan on about 30 years, but we can't promise that for any one deck. An old frame is a reason to look closer, and the call on repair or replace comes after we look under it.
Can you put new boards on an old deck frame?
Yes, if the frame is pressure-treated and sound. We replace the weak pieces, add joists if the new boards are composite, and deck over it.
How much does deck replacement cost in the Bay Area?
In our calculator, a full replacement runs pressure-treated $45 to $60, redwood $57 to $69, composite $50 to $80 per sq ft on level ground; delivery and hauling away the old deck are quoted separately.
How much does deck repair cost?
We do not price repairs from a table: two decks with the same symptom can need an afternoon or a new frame. We look at the deck in person and give you the number in writing. Text us photos and we will talk through what they show and what we need to check in person. Photos cannot show the hidden frame, so the scope is set after the visit.
Does deck repair need a permit?
Ordinary repairs need no application under CRC R105.2.2, and swapping worn boards is usually treated that way. Replacing joists, beams or posts is not an ordinary repair. Your building department makes the call.
My deck is old but I cannot afford a replacement. Should I patch it?
If it is stable and nothing that carries the load is rotten, leave it alone for now and put the money toward a replacement. Patching a weak frame piece by piece can add up, and it still leaves you with the old frame. If it was built without connectors and joist hangers, have it looked at first.
Can wood rot on a deck be repaired?
It depends on where the rot is, and that is decided by looking at the frame under the boards, not at the boards alone. A local repair is something we consider for an almost-new deck where only some boards or fasteners are damaged — and only after an inspection; if the pressure-treated frame is sound, new boards can go on top of it after we inspect it and fix what it needs. Rot in the posts, beams or joists is a reason for a closer look and a conversation about full replacement — we don't cover structural rot with filler, sanding or paint.
How to tell if deck wood is rotten?
NADRA's consumer checklist lists possible signs of rot: wood that feels soft and spongy, breaks off without long splinters, or lets an awl or screwdriver go in easily ¼ to ½ inch. Finding one of these signs doesn't diagnose rot, and not finding them doesn't mean the deck is safe. Rot can hide in the frame and at the board attached to the house, where you cannot see it. Do not walk out on a deck you doubt, lean on a loose railing or crawl under a shaky structure to look. If something seems wrong, stay off that part and have the frame looked at.
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